Berlin
and the Best of America
Just
back from a week in Berlin playing with the Ukulele Orchestra of Great Britain
at the fantastic cabaret, the Bar Jeder Vernunft, which has to be seen to be believed
- its precisely like the set from the movie Cabaret and indeed they put said show
on there regularly. Since we're playing at the same venue for 5 nights and the
hotel isn't far from the theatre I went with Gilly and Poppy who's becoming a
right regular traveller. In fact all I had to do to get to the theatre was think
of 'pants' as the turning was on the fabulously named 'Meinekestrasse.'
Berliners
are friendly people and the shows all went well and we're due to go back there
again this year, Berlin itself is a fantastic city and even cheaper than the Isle
of Wight, wide boulevards, friendly people, good food and the best beer in the
world.
We
managed to do quite a bit of sightseeing including the Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag
with its fantastic Norman Foster dome (Poppy did a poo at the very top- twice!)
Checkpoint Charlie and the Antiquities museum to see the famous bust of the Egyptian
queen Nefertiti.
We
also visited the Museum of Berlin and one of the things I didn't know much about
was the Berlin Airlift and the story of the Candy Bomber which brought a tear
to my eye. I'm indebted to the Deansworld website which recounts the story
The
occupation of Germany in the first couple of years after World War II was very
difficult. People in many places were constantly hungry, clean water wasn't always
available, and coal for heat wasn't always to be had. Medical supplies weren't
available everywhere, the roads and railroads were a mess, and electricity and
telephone service took a long time to get turned back on in many parts of the
country. It took many years before the country was returned to what could be called
"normal."
Complicating
matters, our "ally" Stalin had seized about a third of Germany, which
became known as East Germany. The Western allies (the UK, France, and the USA)
held the rest of the country, which became known as West Germany. However, due
to diplomatic wrangling, the Western forces held about half of the capital city,
Berlin.
Berlin
was about a hundred miles deep into Stalin's Germany, but the free world still
had possession of half of that one city. Stalin's troops would often shoot at
people who ran to what became known as the "American sector" of Berlin.
But many people took the risk and ran there anyway. Meanwhile, to keep the free
part of Berlin alive, the West used the railroads and the roads to keep people
supplied with food, coal, and other supplies.
Stalin
found these intolerable and found excuses to cut off the railway and road access
that had been negotiated after the war. It was a loophole: the allies had access
to the roads and the rails, but if the rails and roads were destroyed, how could
they get there?
Once
Stalin did this, the people of Berlin were faced with a stark choice: starve,
freeze to death in the winter, or capitulate to Stalin. To make it enticing, Stalin
offered them free food and coal and shelter. But countless Germans refused to
leave the free part of Berlin.
In
the West, a different loophole was found. The treaty had allowed limited access
by road, by rail, and by three narrowly-defined air corridors. Stalin destroyed
the roads and the rail lines, but how could he destroy the air corridors?
He
couldn't.
It's
difficult for people today to fully appreciate what a massive undertaking it was
to supply a city entirely by air. Today, in 2003, it would be difficult to supply
a city with everything it needed entirely by air, with no trucks or railroads
to help with the burden. In that day, it was a truly incredible proposition. Airplanes
were much smaller, and harder to come by. But, God Bless Harry Truman and the
allies in the West: it was resolved to keep the free sector of Berlin supplied
with food, coal, medical supplies, and material goods strictly by air. For well
over a year, even through a very harsh winter, the West kept the people of free
Berlin fed, clothed, and supplied with coal for heat.
It
was a very tough time to be a Berliner: the rations were often as little as a
thousand calories per day for an adult, and the coal for heat was often barely
enough to stave off dying of exposure. But for 24 hours a day, 7 days a week,
for well over a year, the allies kept the people of Berlin alive by air. The people
of Berlin lived as best they could, in order that part of Berlin might remain
free. After more than a year of this, Stalin capitulated, and allowed the roads
and the railways to open again to the West.
The
full story of The Berlin Airlift would take more than one book to describe. The
Berlin Airlift Veteran's Association still exists, to honour the memory of the
veterans of that valiant effort who are gone now, and to treasure those who are
still with us. Those men often flew 14, 16, 18 hour days, day after day; just
to keep the freedom--and the hope--of the people of Berlin alive.
But
what I want to tell you about now is one particular part of the story of the Berlin
Airlift. One of the GIs (Air Force men, forgive me: they called us all GIs back
then, even when many of you were Marines and Airmen) was a man known as Lt. Gail
S. Halvorsen. A flier in the Berlin Airlift, he often stopped over for brief breaks
within Berlin. And, as is so often the case where American GIs find themselves
around the world, he more than once found himself surrounded by children who hoped
he'd share the chewing gum and chocolate bars that so often accompany American
servicemen.
So
what did he do? He did just what American GIs who have the guts to mix with the
locals always do. He broke out what he had and passed it out to the kids as best
he could. The children who lived near the air base started to look for him. He
found himself, every time he visited, confronted with more and still more children
who knew he'd share with them.
You
must understand: these children were hungry. I did not exaggerate when I said
that during the most harrowing parts of the airlift, the ration for every person
in Berlin, man, woman, or child, was as little as a thousand calories per day.
Today, if a doctor wants an adult woman to lose weight fairly quickly, he usually
puts her on a 1,200 calorie per day diet. A man, perhaps 1,500. Children need
much more, because they're growing.
A
cup of instant noodle soup I just pulled out of my cupboard has 300 calories.
Ponder that for a moment.
These
were hungry children. They were children who, when they did eat, had little but
what could be made with powered milk, powdered eggs, flour, and water. Perhaps
a bit of spam, canned beef, or canned chicken, now and then. If lucky, a little
sugar. If very lucky, a bit of flavoured jelly.
But
the GIs, they had bubble gum. They had Hershey bars.
Honestly
now: Can you imagine a greater treasure in all the world?
So
Halvorsen often found himself mixing with the locals, and the children always
came looking for him. Far more than he could handle. His buddies gave him their
chocolate and gum rations, and he passed that out too. But the crowds were bigger
than he could handle. So he made a deal with the children: he would drop chocolate
bars and chewing gum from his plane when he came flying in, which he did a few
times a day. Those who could catch the treats could have them, although he hoped
they'd share.
To
make sure the treats wouldn't shatter and spatter on the ground, he fashioned
little parachutes made from handkerchiefs and string to drop out of the plane.
This was a double treat, because the handkerchiefs could be fashioned by the kids'
families into rudimentary clothing and blankets and such, to help keep warm.
His
flying mates helped him with this task, just as they shared their rations. He
would tell the children that they'd know him when he came flying in to drop treats
on them: he would wiggle his plane's wings. As his plane would come in to drop
off flour, powdered milk and eggs, and coal, he would wiggle his plane's wings
and drop the treats. The children always knew it would be him, for his plane's
wings would wiggle just before the parachutes full of treasure began to drop.
Do
you know what the children started to call him? Uncle Wiggle Wings.
Eventually,
the children came to see that Uncle Wiggle Wings had more than one airplane. How?
Because air crews throughout the Berlin Airlift, British and American alike, began
to emulate the first Uncle Wiggle Wings, and service men from both great nations
began to drop their dessert rations and handkerchiefs upon the children of Berlin.
Eventually, this part of the Airlift took on a life of its own, as children (and
candy companies) across the USA and the UK began to contribute to what Halverson
eventually dubbed "Operation Little Vittles." Most air crews that flew
into Berlin did "candy bomb" runs over Berlin on at least a semi-regular
basis.
All
this lasted until Stalin, out of frustration, finally ended the blockade, and
allowed road and rail access to West Berlin again.
I
like to think that when the Berlin Wall finally came down in 1989, Gail Halverson
had a huge smile of shock and delight his face. Because he was alive to see it,
you know. Indeed, the last I heard, he was still alive and well and living in
Utah.
Tony's
Archives:
Naked
As Nature Intended
Old Tony Penultimate Video
Resurfaces
Berlin
and the Best of America
Tony and the Faerie Queen
Tony
Visits a Brothel
Bull Fighting The Penultimate Way
Tony and the Tax Man
Soppy
and the Sentimentals
Tony
meets Alfred Molina
Autumn
Tony
Naughty
Tonyy